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Peter Brears
512 pp; 246 x 174 mm; 74 b&w illustrations; hardback
ISBN 978-1-0903018-55-2 £30 |
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Winer of The Andre Simon
Memorial Fund Food Book Award 2009
The history of
medieval food and cookery has received a fair amount of attention from the
point of view of recipes (of which many survive)and of the general context
of feasts and feasting. It has never, as yet, been studied with an eye to
the real mechanics of food production and service: the equipment used, the
household organisation, the architectural arrangements for kitchens,
store-rooms, pantries, larders, cellars, and domestic administration. This
new work by Peter Brears, perhaps Britain’s foremost expert on the
historical kitchen, looks at these important elements of cooking and
dining. He also subjects the many surviving documents relating to food
service – household ordinances, regulations and commentaries – to critical
study in an attempt to reconstruct the precise rituals and customs of
dinner.
An underlying intention is to rehabilitate the medieval Englishman as
someone with a nice appreciation of food and cookery, decent manners, and
a delicate sense of propriety and seemliness. To dispel the myth, that is,
of medieval feasting as an orgy of gluttony and bad manners, usually
provided with meat that has gone slightly off, masked by liberal additions
of heady spices.
A series of chapters looks at the cooking departments in large
households:the counting house, dairy, brewhouse, pastry, boiling house and
kitchen. These are illustrated by architectural perspectives of surviving
examples in castles and manor houses throughout the land. Then there are
chapters dealing with the various sorts of kitchen equipment: fires, fuel,
pots and pans. Sections are then devoted to recipes and types of food
cooked. The recipes are those which have been used and tested by Peter
Brears in hundreds of demonstrations to the public and cooking for museum
displays. Finally there are chapters on the service of dinner (the service
departments including the buttery, pantry and ewery) and the rituals that
grew up around these. Here, Peter Brears has drawn a wonderful strip
cartoon of the serving of a great feast (the washing of hands, the
delivery of napery, the tasting for poison, etc.) which will be of
permanent utility to historical re-enactors who wish to get their details
right.
Peter Brears was formerly director of the museums at York and Leeds and
has worked all his life in the field of domestic history. He has written
extensively on traditional foods and cookery in Yorkshire, as well as a
groundbreaking illustrated catalogue of domestic and farmhouse materials
in Torquay Museum. He supervised the reconstruction of several important
historical kitchens, including those at Hampton Court, Ham House, Cowdray
Castle and Belvoir Castle.
Readership: academic; general; those interested in the history of food
and cookery. |
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